I've looking to order my first exhaust muffler, I'm not sure as to what brand I should go with. If you guys could help me choose that would be great. Price is not a factor.
This is the website I'm looking to buy from. You can see of the brands they have for our car.
Going to come down to tone you want from the exhaust really. All perform about the same and give roughly same gains just have different sounds. I just never have been able to pull myself to pay $300 to $400 for sound unless is it Audio. lol. But what ever you decide I can help you put it on if you need it.
I have the Strup axle back on my xD and I love it. Nice deep tone, not raspy or with that "fart can" sound. Gets loud when you run it hard, but pretty mellow when you're takin' it easy. Not to "droney" on the highway. Has a nice pop/crackle on deceleration too. (I have a manual trans, not sure if it would be there with an auto though.) Overall a quality product in my book.
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Has anyone thought of or done a Streight pipe with no muffeler at all yet? Just curiouos to see what ppl would think about that
sounds like it'd be loud and too obnoxious, and probably for about the same cost as would an axleback. except you'd have potentially unpretty fence pipe vs a nice stainless steel piece.
only reason i'd do it is to get a jdm style lean on the pipe that is unachievable with any of the current options, but id have about 400 mufflers in line so it doesnt sound like a chainsaw
not too much. Its deffidently not enough to notice any hp boost or anything. I just looks and sound nicer. It doesnt have that nasty old fart can or weed eater sound.
Straight pipe may sound loud and obnoxious as xDTool said. But as for just No muffler, that is what I am running and am happy.
wouldnt running no muffler mean having low to no backpressure, straight pipe wouldnt be good on our cars at all from what ive heard. a buddy of mine said that the engine internals would run faster than normal(you rev to 5k and it shows on the tach but the engine is most like working at 6500k) and have higher wear probability. idk im not an expert just relaying info ive been told.
In general terms, for performance,the less back pressure the better, as long as the intake and fuel can keep up with the exhaust. The performance loss that some people encounter when they upgrade their exhaust is almost always attributable to a lean condition due to the fuel system being unable to keep up with the increased airflow through the engine.
Also, electrons move faster than your engine can rev. If your tach "reads" slow it is not because the engine is too fast for it, it is because the manufacturer has built in a little electronic damping to keep the needle from jumping around like crazy. Independent of the tach itself, there is a rev limiter built into the engine management system that works in real time and will step in and cut fuel or ignition as needed to keep the engine from over revving regardless of the tach reading. The only way to over rev the engine is to mechanically over drive it by downshifting to a gear that takes the engine above red line, or running it up to the verge of red line under load and then suddenly releasing the load while keeping the throttle pegged, thus allowing the engine to "spike" in rpm before the system can shut it down.
This only applies to modern fuel injected/electronic ignition vehicles. Old school stuff with simple ignition systems, carbs, etc. will rev until something gives as long as the throttle is open enough to let it happen. Ever seen an engine blow at a VW meet?
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The secret of flying is to throw yourself at the ground and miss.
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